D I S C L A I M E R

Although I write about products and techniques, I don't receive compensation of any kind from anybody. The products that I write about work for me in my setting as an artist.

Thursday, December 31, 2009

Picture Frames

I make most of my own picture frames from pine boards bought at the "lumber yard".  I buy pine 1 inch by 8 inch by 8 foot boards (with the least number of large knots) and rip (with my table saw) them into strips. (I buy 8 foot boards because they fit into the back of our Subaru Outback car.) Then I make two cuts in the strips leaving the picture frame "molding".  I make two size "moldings" - i call them "deep" and "shallow".  The deep frames hold stretched canvas or my canvas/masonite panels. The shallow frames are for the smaller (16x20 and smaller) Masointe paintings.

I make each frame to fit a particular painting - sometimes my paintings aren't quite the "correct" measurement.I glue and with the mitered corners held in frame-corner clamps, nail the mitered corners then use wood putty to fill any nail-holes or nicks in the wood. Then I give the frame one coat of latex satin paint - usually black.  I give the frame another sanding in (about) 24 hours, when the first coat of paint is dry and another coat of paint.  Another sanding then another coat of paint and the frame is ready for the painting.  And I DO wear disposable latex gloves when I paint my frames!


I usually make a dozen or more frames when I make frames - sort of an assembly line process. cut the frames wood strips, measure and miter the frame sides, assemble the four sides of the frames, then sand and paint.

I have a Bostitch air powered "brad nailer" that was a present from Melissa. The same compressor powered the framing nailer we used to assemble the studio.  Very handy tool!




Shallow molding on top, with the deep molding on the bottom.


The front side of a deep frame assembled and painted satin black. The line in the corner is a reflection and isn't that obvious without a flash from the camera.




The back side of the deep frame pictured above. Most of the time I don't paint the "inside" or back of the frame.

4 comments:

  1. i absolutely love your post!you always have a full awesome content...that's why i love visiting your blog..

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  2. Hi Eugene, sorry that I'm tardy in replying. "Time passes quickly when I'm having fun." :-)

    Thank you for your compliment. I try to make a post of the things that I do that might interest others or (especially) get feedback on how to do "it" better.

    Ken B.

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  3. great article. Im an artist interested in building and streching my own canvas and stretcher bars. I usually paint big 4'x6' on unstrechted canvas. Im looking for a quality and efficient set up for my art studio. I have a mitre saw. I thought next step would be a nice work bench, nailer, air compressor, and even a table saw for ripping 2x4 at an anglr for the strechers. and possible framing my own art like yours. do you have any reccommendations tools for me. Ive already paid a local framer too much just to strecth my canvases. I figure spend a little now and it will pay for itself over the years.I would appreciate any advice or suggestions for my art studio canvas stretching/framing setup.

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  4. Hi Terry - thanks for dropping by my blog and for your comment.

    For power tools I would get at least (in no particular order) an air compressor nail-gun, a VERY GOOD 10" table saw, a VERY GOOD 10" miter saw and a SOLID, movable workbench. You'll be using the saws frequently. A GOOD, reliable power sander would be nice. I own a very good cordless electric drill but hardly ever use it for "art stuff". Good (straight?) lumber is difficult to buy without emptying my wallet. I buy "cheap" pine & it warps like crazy if I'm not careful when selecting at the lumber store.

    It has taken me several years to accumulate the tool set that I have. Hand tools can do the job if you take the time and energy. :-)

    Good luck with your wood projects.

    Ken B.

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